Req 8b5d — Home Gardening for People and Wildlife

This track creates a designed mixed garden that serves both human enjoyment and wildlife habitat. All four sub-requirements must be completed—they build on each other from design through ongoing care and ecological awareness. Begin planning before the season starts so you’re ready to plant as soon as conditions allow.

Requirement 8b5d1

The design phase is as important as the planting. Before putting a single plant in the ground:

1. Observe the site: How many hours of sun does it receive? What is the drainage like? What is the soil texture?
2. Sketch a plan: Draw the 10×10-foot area to scale. Mark where each plant will go, considering mature size, height layering (tall plants at back/center, shorter at front/edges), and color combinations.
3. Select plants: Choose a mix of types suited to your site and zone. Mix annuals for immediate color with perennials for long-term structure.
4. Prepare the soil: Test pH if possible; amend with compost; remove existing grass or weeds.

Keep your design sketch—your counselor will want to see that you planned before planting.

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Requirement 8b5d2

Ten different types—not just 10 individual plants. Aim for variety in function, form, and season of interest.

When your counselor asks why you selected particular varieties, connect your choices to observable criteria: this tomato variety resists blight; this zinnia tolerates heat and drought; this native coneflower attracts pollinators and provides winter seed for birds.

Taking care for one season means active, ongoing attention—not just planting and walking away. Document your activities in a simple log: what you did, when, and what you observed.

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Requirement 8b5d3

Nine techniques must be demonstrated. Here is what to know about each and why it matters:

Soil preparation: Loosen compacted soil; add compost to improve structure and fertility. Prepared soil allows roots to penetrate easily and water to drain properly.

Staking: Support tall, top-heavy, or climbing plants (tomatoes, dahlias, tall perennials) to prevent wind damage and keep fruit off the ground.

Watering: Deep, infrequent watering encourages deep root growth. Watering at the base reduces fungal disease. Drought stress causes wilting, reduced yield, and increased pest susceptibility.

Weeding: Weeds compete for water, light, and nutrients—remove before they set seed. Hand-pull when soil is moist; use a hoe on dry, loose soil.

Mulching: 2–3 inches of organic mulch conserves moisture, moderates soil temperature, suppresses weeds, and adds organic matter as it breaks down.

Composting: Recycling plant material into compost reduces waste and creates a free soil amendment rich in nutrients and beneficial microorganisms.

Fertilizing: Replenishes nutrients that plants consume and rain leaches away. Match fertilizer type to plant needs (nitrogen for leafy growth, phosphorus for roots and flowers, potassium for overall vigor).

Pest management: Identify the pest before treating. Integrated pest management (IPM) uses the least-harmful effective control first—physical removal, barriers, beneficial insects, then targeted pesticides as a last resort.

Pruning: Removing dead or diseased tissue, shaping plants, or pinching back growth to direct energy where it’s needed (e.g., pinching basil tips to prevent bolting and promote leafy growth).

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Requirement 8b5d4

Four types of habitat improvements (be specific, not just general categories):

1. Food sources: Native plants with berries, seeds, or nectar (coneflower, serviceberry, native grasses); supplemental feeders stocked with appropriate seeds.
2. Water: A birdbath, small pond, or shallow dish kept clean and fresh—especially important in dry seasons.
3. Shelter and nesting sites: Dense shrubs, brush piles, snag trees (standing dead wood), or nest boxes sized for target species.
4. Reduced pesticide use: Avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides protects insect food sources for birds and preserves pollinators critical to the entire food web.

For your native plant list: Use resources specific to your region—state extension service, native plant societies, or the Audubon Native Plants database. For each plant provide:

The plants should be genuinely native to your area—not just plants that happen to be sold at a nursery.

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